February 17st, 2006:
Note to self: "When replacing the tension pulley bearing (refer: January 26th, 2005 below) also replace the stud, it costs $1 but saves a lot".
The darn stud sheared on the mounting - had this removed without requiring serious machine works or expensive repairs....
Fixed the oil leak and while we were at it replaced the oil pipes to and from the oil cooler by British 4x4.
Had the air conditioning serviced (new dryer, gas and flexible pressure hose fitted) by IceMatic.
March 20th, 2005:
Source of oil leak has been identified by British 4x4 as the sump, to resolve will cost some $60 seal and labour + $20 for new engine oil, will have this done soon.
February 1st, 2005:
Had the the valve caps replaced by British 4x4 (after comment from LTX Landy in Lichtenburg the air intake had a soft panting sound, to quote the mechanic in Afrikaans "die inlaat het 'n blaffie"), bought new fan belt, coolant system plastic plugs & tension pulley bearing (in all ± $30). Regarding the oil leak, new theory - hydraulic pipe may have a crack, will investigate (if it is the pipe I think repair cost around the ± $120 in total), need to have the engine cleaned thoroughly and will then have it "idle" to determine the exact leak point/position.
Loose note - some bugger broke into my Landy and stole - amongst other items - my workshop manual with all my notes. Hope the bugger choked on the Cashew Nuts taken from the glove box.
January 26th, 2005:
Fan belt broke. Stopped in record time as this leads to very rapid engine over heating, this belt pulls the water pump, alternator and power steering pump. Replaced the belt (requires only a 15mm ring/flat and obviously a new fan belt), almost completed this when the engine manifold plastic plug blew its top. Take note: When this happens drop the hood/bonnet if possible - watch out for the boiling water and the steam, anti freeze stains the paint. Completed the belt replacement once the coolant situation stabilized. Investigated the reason or the belt failure - found that the bearing on the tension pulley seized. Compliments to LTX Landy, thanks - Hennie, George & Deon, based in Lichtenburg - North West Province - South Africa [ mobile - 082 899 9642, 49A 2nd Street, Lichtenburg, 2740 ] , they swapped out the Pulley in its entirety (150km roundtrip, 20minutes on site + water and the plastic plug equates to ± $140 of which ± $130 is labor and traveling - ± $10 for the parts).
January 14th, 2005:
Still leaking oil, definitely not the brake vacuum pump, back to the crank shaft seal. Engine overhaul - New Seal (1), this leaked - replaced Seal (2), leaked had it replaced (3). We are now going for Seal No. 4 - decided to change the mechanics & garage at the same time - maybe they will get this right. I am considering doing this myself, have the manual, just need the time and patience.
January 6th, 2005:
Repair cost: ± $600 in total, the shaft repair amounted to ± $150 (not bad considering what could have gone wrong up there in the head). The cause of the failure is un-clear, I speculate that the failure was due to the bolts not being replaced at the overhauled (end 2003) and/or over tightening of the bolt. I personally feel that the bolt did not just shear as the experts at the service center suggested: "just one of those things ".
Without restarting discussion or inviting debate, on a local Forum a member referred to the failure of the alternator on a LR, this raised the issue of reliability, despite the fact that the alternator is a OEM part from either Bosch or the likes - the blame is still placed with LR, makes sense? Other vehicles use the same OEM alternator (manufacturer) - no comment on those failures- maybe the alternator sees the badge and then fails......
December 21st, 2004:
Back to square 1. Had a breakdown - December 19th, 2004 - the 5th bolt (beyond cylinder 4 - at the rear of the engine) securing the rocker arm shaft sheared at the intercept of the thread & shaft. This resulted in the rocker arm shaft breaking between cylinder 3 & 4, bent a push-rod in the process. Symptoms just before breakdown - audible "chronic cough" after break - major loss of power. Action taken - get off the road (freeway) stop engine asap! (Forget the turbo - save the engine....) Had the vehicle towed back home - dropped it at the local mechanics December 20th, 2004 - will collected December 21st, 2004. New Rocker am shaft, bolts, gasket, engineering work to remove bolt, insert etc. Decided to have them replace the original vacuum pump while they are at it. (Electric one has not arrived yet). Estimated costs: Repair ± $350, Pump ± $440.
December 14th, 2004:
Changed my mind - ordered a Vacuum Pump Kit from the good old US of A - $259, will try it out. Nothing ventured nothing gained - when the local dealer tells you that they regularly "just replace the real thing" one might as well try something else. (Waiting for delivery).
November 3rd, 2004:
Checked the options and staying with the "Real Thing", better the devil you know then the one you don't.
September 11th, 2004:
Have researched the possibility of an electrical (12V) vacuum booster pump, sounds good doesn't it? Not so:
Cost wise it is more expensive then the part it replaces ($275 - $380).
No information of durability.
No information on user serviceability.
Last but not least, have not found a local supplier (yet).
August 25th, 2004:
a) Alternator - sorted, replaced the rectifier, note that the alternator warning lamp can also indicate a fault when it does not light up, seems semi ridiculous that the same lamp on and off can indicate a fault as the only other possibility is a faulty lamp.
b) The buggers who solved the alternator problem failed to re-tighten the jockey pulley and this resulted in the serpentine belt coming of, replaced the belt, luckily no other damage. (By the way the spares store charges 1% more for the non-OEM belt then the local Landy agents).
c) Visited the local Landy dealer - found a lost contact there - the oil leak is definitely the brake booster vacuum pump. The diaphragm is "kaput". Official word - replace with stealer part (±$550), local British 4x4 (±$175) and then the grand finale - there is apparently a crew in Johannesburg who fix these units (Landy service tech info - knows of them but would not divulge contact details - rediscovered contact offered to wrest this info from the service staff) - will investigate this further. August 25th 2004
August 11th, 2004: New problem - At first glance the alternator diode bridge has become defective. Will investigate. Have checked the warning light panel (no problem there) - much to my surprise there are "pre-fitted" 4 additional warning lamps which the user can access, simply add the correct lug to fit the terminal and there you have custom warning indicators. This is a great surprise as the lights are factory fitted with terminals but not utilized (neither the owners nor the workshop manual has information pointing to a specific use for these). Must just add that there is one lamp which is connected via the wiring harness without any indication of the source/function, could this be the fabled bonus lamp which lights up to notify you that you have just won a spare Landy? August 12th 2004
July 20th, 2004: Still leaking oil, took the Landy back - "new" source identified as the brake vacuum pump mounted on the engine. The proposed remedy (technician/mechanic) is the replacement of the pump. As this leak started directly after the engine was overhauled I think that a) the bolts may need tightening, b) the flange was not cleaned properly before re-fitment / gasket damaged. Both of these are latent defects and I will first check them before simply replacing the pump. Technician/mechanic - It was a sad day when they became fitters. July 20th 2004
July17th, 2004: Had the service - a small piece of metal was found on the transfer gearbox sump plug. This raise some concern as to the integrity of the transfer gearbox. Pull the gearbox, have it checked, no chips or anything untoward was found - re-assemble with new seas all round (cost 13% of the cost of the overhaul featured on this page). The technician/mechanic thinks that one of the mounting bolts may have been slightly longer than specified (this has apparently happened before) and that the tip has been ground of by the gears. Extremely - exceptionally glad that the gearbox is fine. The seal mentioned in the next paragraph - replaced as well - something is still leaking like a sieve. Taking it back to have this addressed - that's what it went for, handbrake needs adjusting. July 17th 2004
February 7th, 2004: The overhauled engine has
developed an oil leak, appears to be the crank shaft seal. Will have this
attended to at the next service. February
Took the Landy for a trip to Nelspruit, Mphumalanga, South Africa. Still treating the overhauled engine very gently, no wide throttle openings or full-power charges, low revs etc. This does wonders for the fuel consumption. Improved to the order of 13km/l (7.7l/100km) from the usual 9.2km/l (10.9l/100km) wide tar with some dirt (90/10 %). Used 500ml on the 1st 1000km - still need to check this bit [this is a major improvement - ref the paragraph below the "Before" compression test graph].
After the last trip to Botswana the oil consumption rose slightly and it started smoking. Visited half a dozen "experts" and eventually sent the TDi (143 000 km on the clock) for an Overhaul. Here is the "Before" compression test result (pressure in bar).
Test done by (Northern Diesel Inj. Tel. #: 012 321 7689 - South Africa - nice crowd dropped me of at work and fetched me later the same day @ no extra charge).
As can be clearly seen the #1 cylinder was really stuffed. Landy started fine, ran fine smoked like a pro. Oil consumption rose to 500ml / 100km. Rather on the oily side. On further investigation the #1 cylinder had to be re-sleeved. Back to standard size. This took a while - 5 weeks.
It runs well - quieter. No smoke - will have the diesel system/pump checked. The injectors were serviced a week before the overhaul started. Just for the hell of it the compression test was repeated @ the ±2000 km mark [November 2003] to check the improvement and as a benchmark for the future. Here is the "After" compression test result (pressure in bar).
I find it disconcerting that the pattern of the "Before" and "After" tests are similar - have however decided not to have sleepless nights about this as the engine is running well, starts almost instantly even when cold 0°C (32°F). Just a comment: Second gear is a bit stiff at this ambient after a cold start. July 20th 2004
Test done by
(who by the way did not properly re-connect the #1 injector fuel return
pipe, smell like a Truck Farm). Fixed this myself, replaced the entire return
fuel line with new hoses December
Dastek was conveniently located across the road from a project I was working on - cost the same as Northern Diesel.
Choice between the two (having only been to each once - very subjective):
Northern Diesel: My 1st choice -
Informative and very helpful.
If you are the hands on type who likes to learn and understand - these are the people to see.
The other Bosch center just need to check their name - not
as big as No 1 above (I think).
They deliver the same friendly hands on service - and actually diagnosed the problem 1st.
How many of us actually pull out the dipstick while the engine is running?
Thought it serves no purpose - with sump compression there is a definite "blow" with the engine running.
Dastek: 3rd place Very professional /
clinical - have some fear regarding clients seeing their workshop.
Way more formal, if you are the type who likes dropping of the problem,
having it fixed and then just paying without knowing why or how - choose Dastek.
Personally they won't see me again - I have a fear of places where they don't allow me to see for myself..
PS: For the real enthusiast there is a excellent/cool website in Estonia (of all places) with manuals. Service and engine overhaul manual. Drop me mail for more information.
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